Compressor Update

Obviously, this is bad news.

The new starting cap had little effect on the compressor starting. It just hums. The tank is empty, and I can turn the motor and compressor easily; it’s not seized.

I am out of ideas.

Looks like a new compressor on the horizon.

Harbor Freight, here I come.

I agree, Jim. I’d rather fix this one than get a new Chinese one.

A new motor from Ereplacement dot com was $214. I guess if I searched I could find one cheaper. Need to check the HP rating.

I’m about done in for today, after hauling hundreds of pounds of rocks.

stay tuned…I’ll go make a run and jot down the info after a stop at the medicine cabinet…

The price on a new motor of this type went up over $100 since the last time I checked…figures.

Here’s one from Grainger

and another…the only dif was the voltage

12 thoughts on “Compressor Update

  1. This used to happen to the teletype machines in the Coast Guard all the time. Yeah; sounds like the motor windings have gone off the Valhalla. Easy test to see if it’s the motor-start cap is the issue: if the motor’s humming but not turning, shut it off and remove the belt. Turn it back on and try giving the pulley a spin. If the motor spins up, it’s the cap. If it doesn’t, it’s the motor windings.

      • Turn off the compressor, take the belt off the motor, and turn the power back on. Usually, if the cap is bad, the motor will just sit there humming, the output shaft wiggling back and forth ever so slightly. At that point, if you spin the motor by hand, it’ll spin up in whichever direction you spin it. You’ll have to spin it like you mean it, as the motor isn’t going to want to go either way easily. The motor cap more or less does this, and and also determines which way the motor is going to spin. Don’t leave the belt on, thinking you can just pull on the belt to get the motor to spin, as you stand an excellent chance of having your fingers drawn into the belt and pulley!

        We used to spin the motors up backwards on the old teletypes just to watch the damned thing eat itself alive! …Good times…

  2. Unplug the sucker and remove the rear bearing housing (opposite the pully side.)
    Most motors of this type have a centrifugal switch that is operated by flyweights.
    Inspect the contacts. If they show signs of burning, use a needle file or fingernail
    file to clean them up if they are not too badly burned. If they are fused together,
    us a screwdriver to separate them prior to filing.

    PS I forgot to add remove the belt to take the strain off the motor before removing
    the bearing housing.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s